A Meal Among Sailors: Discovering Lübeck’s Schiffergesellschaft

There’s something about old restaurants that instantly makes a meal feel more meaningful. Maybe it’s the flickering candlelight, the creaking wooden floors, or just the thought of how many people have dined there before you—laughter, toasts, whispered conversations. And when a restaurant has been around for over 150 years in a building that’s stood for more than 500, you know it has stories to tell.

That’s exactly what makes Schiffergesellschaft in Lübeck so special. It’s not just a place to eat — it’s like stepping into the past.

Why Lübeck Feels Like a Fairytale (With a Side of History)

Lübeck has long been one of my favorite cities in Germany. There’s something almost surreal about it—the medieval brick Gothic buildings, the winding cobblestone streets, the way the Trave River curves around the old town like a protective arm. It’s the kind of place where you half expect to run into Thomas Mann or Günter Grass, both of whom once called this city home.

And the best part? It’s only about an hour from Hamburg, making it an easy escape from the modern world into something that feels much older, slower, and richer.

The Hanseatic League: Lübeck’s Seafaring Legacy

Of course, Lübeck isn’t just a pretty old town—it was once the beating heart of the Hanseatic League, the medieval trade network that connected cities like Hamburg, Bremen, Rostock, Danzig (Gdańsk), Riga, and Tallinn. These merchants didn’t just trade goods; they built a shared culture of wealth, power, and seafaring adventure. You can still feel that history everywhere in Lübeck, but nowhere more so than in Schiffergesellschaft, a restaurant that quite literally belonged to the city’s ship captains.

What Makes Schiffergesellschaft So Special

Walking into Schiffergesellschaft, I felt like I had stepped onto an old ship. The dark wood, the heavy furniture, the air thick with stories of captains and sailors who once gathered here. Three things strike you immediately:

1. The Wooden Ships Hanging from the Ceiling

Looking up, you can’t miss the model ships suspended above the dining hall. They aren’t just decoration—they’re tributes to Lübeck’s seafaring past. This place wasn’t always a restaurant; it was once the meeting house for Lübeck’s ship captains, where they planned voyages, made deals, and probably swapped some dramatic sea stories over tankards of beer.

2. The Food: Hearty, Rich, and Perfect for a Cold Day

If you love traditional northern German food, this place is heaven. The portions are generous, the quality is very high and the flavors are bold: you can almost imagine sailors feasting on the same dishes centuries ago. Some standouts:

• Labskaus – A sailor’s dish of mashed corned beef, potatoes, beetroot, and a fried egg, with pickled herring on the side. It sounds strange but tastes fantastic.
• Pannfisch – Fresh pan-fried fish with a mustard sauce that’s surprisingly addictive.
• Hanseatic duck – Crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, and served with all the traditional trimmings.
• Rote Grütze – A simple but delicious berry dessert, topped with vanilla sauce. If you have room for it, definitely order one.

3. The Details That Transport You Back in Time

One of the things I love about Schiffergesellschaft is how much effort they put into keeping things authentic. The silverware feels heavy, the napkins are thick and folded like they belong in an old-world feast, and the staff moves with the quiet efficiency of people who know they’re keeping a tradition alive. There’s no rush here—just good food, candlelight, and the hum of quiet conversation.

A Restaurant Full of Stories

One of my favorite details? There’s an old legend that sailors used to leave a coin under their plate for luck before setting sail. Sitting there, under those model ships, I couldn’t help but wonder how many sailors had eaten in this very room before embarking on a dangerous journey. Did they make it back? Did they sit at this same table again, years later, a little older, a little wiser?

It’s those little moments of history—woven into the fabric of a place—that make a meal feel special.

Final Thoughts

I’ve eaten in a lot of old restaurants, but Schiffergesellschaft is something else. It’s not a museum, but it feels like one. It’s not just a restaurant, but an experience—a connection to the people who built Lübeck, sailed its ships, and made it the city it is today.

The best time to visit Lübeck is before Christmas so that you can also enjoy the beautiful old-fashioned Xmas market.  A feast for the eyes and entertainment for all, especially young kids or grand-kids.

So if you ever find yourself in Lübeck, grab a seat at one of the long wooden tables, order a plate of Labskaus, and soak it all in. And if you want to follow the old tradition, maybe leave a coin under your plate—you never know when you’ll be back.–

Neil Steinberg