I recently returned from a three-day trip to Krakow, a city I chose initially for its somber proximity to Auschwitz-Birkenau. As the child of Holocaust survivors, visiting the site of such profound loss felt like a necessary pilgrimage, a way to connect with a history that lives within me. However, what I discovered in Krakow itself was a city brimming with life, resilience, and a warmth that truly surprised and moved me.
Day 1: Old Town Charm, Riverside Stroll, and a Profound Connection
Wandering through the enchanting Stare Miasto (Old Town), a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Rynek Główny, the main market square is pulsed with energy – flower stalls bursting with color, the rhythmic clip-clop of horse-drawn carriages, and the lively chatter of locals and tourists alike. A visit to St. Mary’s Basilica lets one witness the hourly hejnał mariacki, a trumpet call that breaks off abruptly in memory of a trumpeter who warned the city of a Mongol invasion. The sound echoes through the square, a poignant reminder of Krakow’s long and layered history. We enjoyed a relaxing lunch at one of the many restaurants in the picturesque Market Square, watching people from all over the world mingle and enjoy the beautiful surroundings.
A stroll along the Vistula River revealed another side of Krakow. The city’s bridges are not just functional; they’re works of art, some adorned with countless padlocks left by lovers. One in particular is adorned with amazing sculptures in what is called “Between the Water and the Sky” a permanent art exhibition, which offered a unique perspective on the city’s relationship with its river. https://www.artbalance.pl/wystawa-miedzy-woda-a-niebem
I later found myself in the Kazimierz district, the historic Jewish Quarter. While its cobblestone streets and synagogues now hum with trendy cafes and art galleries, the weight of its past is palpable. Visiting the Remah Synagogue and its adjacent Old Jewish Cemetery, with its weathered tombstones, brought a different kind of resonance. It was here, amidst the echoes of a vibrant Jewish life that was tragically extinguished that modern shopkeepers exude a certain warmth and understanding that were deeply touching, a testament to the enduring memory and respect for the past that seems woven into the fabric of this city.
We enjoyed a truly special dinner at Pod Aniołami (Under the Angels), a restaurant nestled in a beautifully preserved medieval cellar in the heart of the Old Town. The atmosphere was enchanting, with soft lighting and historical architectural details creating a unique ambiance. Knowing that this space had witnessed centuries of Krakow’s history added another layer of meaning to the delicious traditional Polish cuisine we savored. It felt like a moment to appreciate the continuity of life and the enduring spirit of the city. https://www.podaniolami.pl/en/homepage/
Day 2: Bearing Witness at Auschwitz-Birkenau
I’ll share more about this day in a separate blog but it’s important for readers to know that our real reason for traveling to Karkow was its proximity to Auschwitz-Birkenau. Our second day there was dedicated to visiting and our commitment to “never forget”. It’s impossible to adequately describe the profound impact of this experience. Walking through the barbed wire gates, seeing the barracks, the gas chambers, the mountains of belongings – it was a visceral encounter with unimaginable horror. The silence within those walls was deafening, broken only by the whispers of guided tours and the rustling of leaves.
For me, this visit was more than just historical; it was deeply personal. Imagining my parents’ lost families, the lives stolen, the sheer brutality of it all, was overwhelming. Yet, amidst the darkness, I also felt a fierce sense of their survival, their strength, and the importance of bearing witness. Importantly, I was pleased to observe many student groups from both Europe and elsewhere (based on the plethora of languages their teachers were speaking). Sharing my connection to the Holocaust with our guide led to a thoughtful and respectful conversation, further reinforcing the sense that this history is not forgotten here, but actively remembered and learned from.
Returning to Krakow that evening, the city felt different. The vibrant lights and sounds seemed to carry a deeper significance, a testament to the resilience of life after unimaginable loss.
Day 3: Wawel Hill and a Taste of Modern Krakow
My final day began with a visit to Wawel Hill, the historic seat of Polish royalty. Wawel Castle, with its stunning architecture and panoramic views of the Vistula River, offered a glimpse into Poland’s rich cultural heritage. The grandeur of the state rooms and the solemnity of the cathedral provided a sense of continuity, a reminder of the long history that predates and endures beyond the horrors of the 20th century.
In the afternoon, I explored the Nowa Huta district, a fascinating example of socialist realist architecture. This planned city, built after World War II, offers a stark contrast to the Old Town and provides another layer to Krakow’s complex identity.
Our final evening, we dined at Starka, a modern polish restaurant with traditional influences and a wonderful atmosphere. The food was delicious and the infused Vodkas superb. https://www.starka-restauracja.pl/en/
Throughout my visit, I was struck by the genuine warmth and openness of the Polish people I encountered. Whether it was a waiter offering a recommendation, a museum attendant sharing an anecdote, or simply a smile exchanged on the street, there was a consistent sense of welcome. When I mentioned my family’s connection to the Holocaust, the response was invariably one of empathy and understanding, often accompanied by a quiet acknowledgment of the shared history and the importance of remembrance.
Krakow is a city that holds its history with both gravity and grace. It is a place where the echoes of the past resonate deeply, yet the present pulses with a vibrant energy. My initial reason for visiting was rooted in a desire to connect with a painful past, but I left with a profound appreciation for the beauty, resilience, and welcoming spirit of this remarkable city and its people. It’s a place I hope to return to, a place where history and hope intertwine in a truly unforgettable way.
